Senior food producer Spencer Lengsfield visits this newly opened British brasserie in Bath.

Where is it?

Located in the Francis Hotel, Emberwood is convenient for both hotel guests and Bath locals alike. The hotel is in the centre of the historic city, close to everything from the Roman baths to independent shops and cosy pubs.

What is the place like?

The best way to describe the vibe of Emberwood would be grand yet comforting. The dazzling chandeliers, moody table lamps and thriving plants add elegance to the dining room, yet the soft booth seating and large windows overlooking the green square add warmth.

What did you eat and drink? 

Local, seasonal produce meets open-fire cooking at this British brasserie. Whether it’s the ex-dairy côte de bœuf, day-boat Cornish hake, or Isle of Wight tomatoes, (almost) everything is honoured over the charcoal.

I often think a good pâté is an indicator of a solid restaurant – not everyone’s cup of tea, but when executed well it’s a crowd pleaser… and Emberwood’s chicken liver parfait was executed very well. Slightly sweet, served with buttery grilled bread, and pickled shallots and celery for balance, it was the perfect combination of flavours and textures. Probably my favourite bite of the evening, however, I do wish it came with more bread! We also tried the scallops, perfectly cooked and smothered in garlic butter.

Onto the main event, the ex-dairy côte de bœuf, served with either beef fat béarnaise or peppercorn jus. We ordered the confit garlic greens, potatoes with goat's cheese, and heritage leaves on the side, as well as both sauces, and split everything between two. Ex-dairy beef is known for having more fat marbling and a richer flavour; this was no exception. It was a real showstopping platter, served simply with the bone and a little pile of flaky salt (which wasn’t needed, as it was already very well salted). Both sauces were delicious, my favourite being the béarnaise, and the sides all complemented the beef well, though we probably didn’t need three of them.

To round off the meal, we got the tarte tatin with lemon thyme ice cream to share. The lemon thyme was definitely the dominant flavour here, but it was a nice addition to the warm pastry.

Drinks-wise, we opted for a couple of cocktails: the Emberwood Negroni and the Orchard Grove Gimlet. The negroni is made with an English alternative to Campari, and it has a slightly less bitter flavour – perfect for negroni novices. We also shared some red wine, a primitivo, because it’s obligatory with a steak!

Your verdict?

Emberwood doesn’t have the most inventive menu in the world, but it serves up well-executed classic dishes. Try a few different dishes if you’re here on a date or share the côte de bœuf if you’re visiting with a crowd, and make sure to try one of their signature cocktails.