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Food

Taking Orders: Town restaurant, Covent Garden, London

by Helena Lang
Taking Orders: Town restaurant, Covent Garden, London
Image: North End Design

Having read the rave reviews of Town, chef Stevie Parle's new venture, Helena Lang booked a table to find out more.

Where is it?

Situated in Drury Lane, close to Covent Garden but also handy for Holborn and what Londoners call No-Ho, this restaurant borders Theatreland, the West End and the busy offices of the City.

Mid-century furniture meets cool, contemporary design at Town.
Mid-century furniture meets cool, contemporary design at Town.

What's the place like?

This is a relatively large restaurant, with an open kitchen at the back of the room facing the door where you can watch the chefs prepare your meal through a Star Trek inspired space. There is plenty of room for the mid-century-inspired furniture, chrome-framed chairs and squishy leather seating in a deep blood-red, a lovely welcome desk and a chic cocktail bar. It all feels very grand, but friendly and informal at the same time. A very modern version of luxury.

Crispy fried sage leaves with heather honey and chilli
Crispy fried sage leaves with heather honey and chilli

What did you eat and drink?

I couldn't wait to try the fried sage leaves with heather honey and chilli that have had the restaurant critics raving. A bowlful accompanied our first glass of wine as we perused the menu, and they were completely delicious; one of those brilliant ideas that seems so simple but is probably extremely difficult to produce.

Our starters included a Cornish crab salad with Vesuvio tomatoes was a light and refreshing plate. We also tucked into a charred baby gem starter garnished with fresh peas and Spenwood cheese. Best of all was a main course of cod and clam curry, a rich savoury bowl of coconutty, spicy sauce with plenty of white fish and seafood, and a homemade ghee flatbread for scooping.

Chocolate tart with barley ice cream
Chocolate tart with barley ice cream

The dessert menu has a tempting selection and I might have plumped for the cherry clafoutis, but my sweet tooth couldn't wait the required 20 minutes, so instead I chose the chocolate tart. This was a delicate piece of patisserie, served with a scoop of barley ice cream, and satisfied my craving perfectly.

Your verdict

This is fast becoming one of the hottest restaurants in town and is the perfect venue for supper with friends, an exciting date night or a long, leisurely lunch. Full marks for food, ambience, service and style.

How to book

Visit Town to book.

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