They mark the end of Lent, with different parts of the bun having different meaning. It’s not just about the obligatory cross on top, symbolising the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. The spices are also said to represent those used to embalm him, and if you’re biting into a bit of orange peel the flavour is said to reflect the bitterness from his time on the cross.

In my opinion some of the best are made at GAIL’s bakery – their buns were awarded a two-star Great Taste Award, so they know their stuff. After quizzing GAIL’s executive master baker Anomarel Ogen, I discovered they take a more artisanal approach, using a mix of wholemeal, semolina and dark rye flours. Though I’m all for a bun that betters my gut health, I also want ingredients that are instantly accessible – check out my ultimate hot cross buns recipe.

There is, however, a very valuable tip that Anomarel gives. ‘Don’t rush,’ she warns. ‘Good hot cross buns are the result of plenty of time for kneading, resting and proving. In fact, if you can prove them slowly in the fridge overnight, they’ll be even better.’ Proving dough in the fridge, otherwise known as cold fermentation, allows the dough to ferment for longer and enhances the flavour, ideal for all those spices.

I go with a heady mix – cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and allspice, plus cardamom pods simmered in milk to completely infuse. I really want that flavour to come through, and individual spices are easier to control than a mixed jar. A bag of dried mixed fruit includes all I need, and warming the fruit in fresh orange juice adds a citrussy note and plumps it up, rewarding you with a juicy bite. Hot cross buns are festive, a little bit fussy, but a lot of fun to make. An Easter bake – served at breakfast or teatime – that truly rises to the occasion.