In the shadow of the Matterhorn, Ray Doherty discovers the pleasures of one of the largest and highest ski areas in the Alps

After tumbling into the snow for the ninth time, my face stung by the alpine wind and my eyes squinting against the glare, I couldn’t help but feel for my instructor, Emiliano. When I said I was a beginner, I wasn’t exaggerating – the last time I hit the slopes was more than a decade ago. Emiliano remained patient, though I suspect he silently envied his colleague Luigi, who guided the more experienced skiers higher up in Italy’s Breuil-Cervinia. Fortunately, though, things started to click by the afternoon. My ski legs returned and I navigated the intermediate slopes more confidently.

Breuil-Cervinia emerges after a winding drive up the mountain, tucked below the towering Matterhorn – or Monte Cervino, as the Italians call it. The first thing that struck me was how the VRetreats Cervino hotel – a mix of modern and classic design – blended seamlessly with its surroundings. A nearby stream added to the serene atmosphere, making our arrival feel quite cinematic. We were greeted by the hotel’s loquacious manager, Dan, and treated to Champagne cocktails and a platter of potato and melting cheese. It was the ideal introduction to the ski-resort vibes – all glass-panelled windows and panoramic balconies. As we relaxed, huskies howled in the distance (more on them later). Breuil-Cervinia, or Cervinia, is positioned in the picturesque south-facing bowl at the head of the Aosta Valley, two and a half hours north-west of Milan. It offers long, wide-open slopes with plenty of sunshine, while its seamless connection to Zermatt in Switzerland means it provides expansive skiing and snowboarding opportunities across the two countries.

The resort boasts one of the largest and highest ski areas in the Alps, with 322km of slopes and a variety of runs for all skill levels. With nearby glaciers, the ski season here is one of the longest in Europe, running from mid-October to late May. The new 3S cable car that goes from Matterhorn Glacier Paradise to Testa Grigia is the highest border crossing by cable car in the Alps. And at 3,480 metres high, the views are nothing short of spectacular. Though modest, Cervinia compensates with cosy cafés, quality restaurants and well-appointed hotels. The après-ski scene is lively, and we enjoyed pre-dinner canapés and cocktails in the Santus Lounge Bar. Arancini filled with local cheeses were a highlight, as was an Old Fashioned made with vanille de Madagascar and chocolate bitters.

On the first night, we ate at Abri, the VRetreats fine-dining offering, where a dimly lit, wood- panelled private dining area created a suitable ambience, enclosed by the fresh snow that sat halfway up the table-side windows. Excellent Aosta Valley wines paired well with a plate of venison cooked to medium-rare perfection and decorated with edible flowers. The dish was accompanied by crispy croquettes and creamy mashed potatoes, tied together by a fantastic red wine sauce.

But the real star of the meal was the tiramisu dessert: a deconstructed version with the cake layers removed, leaving a bowl of creamy gooeyness. The following morning, we enjoyed eggs Benedict made to order as the sun rose over the Matterhorn, its rays highlighting the peaks in a way that made the coffee taste even better. Soon after, we were ready to get out and tackle the slopes. The hotel’s on-site ski shop was a lifesaver, preparing us with all the gear in no time. While my friends were seasoned skiers, I was content with the progress I made under Emiliano’s guidance. By lunchtime, I was cold and sore, but I also felt a sense of accomplishment. A hearty meal of meatball and mushroom tagliatelle followed by bresaola served over shaved fennel was just what I needed. One of our group had taken a wrong turn on the slopes that morning and ended up in Switzerland. But after some heated words and a payment of €20 (£17), he was ski-lifted back to Italy just in time to get a meal. That meant enjoying a barley risotto with andouille sausage, paired with a crisp white wine that beautifully cut through the richness of the food.

Dog sledding, which we had eagerly agreed to in the morning, seemed less appealing by the late afternoon, after a full day on the slopes. The brief instructional talk from the pack leader and the wild look in the hounds’ eyes didn’t exactly ease my concerns. As we set off, I could see the warm lights of the hotel bar just behind us, and wondered whether I should be in there instead. The next half hour was intense. My desperate attempts to control the dogs in English were futile, and they didn’t appreciate my Italian pronunciation either.

They ignored my commands as they tore around corners and over hills, leaving me tightly gripping the sledge in white-knuckled terror. The drama escalated further when one of our group was flung from her ride. Thankfully, we all survived to tell the tale and at least it made for some laughs around the dinner table later that night. Whether you’re navigating challenging slopes, finding yourself in Switzerland by mistake or holding on for dear life during a dog-sled ride, Cervinia offers more than ski skills. The town and hotel each have their own character – distinctive, unpredictable and refreshingly different. Cervinia isn’t just a ski destination; it’s an experience that stays with you.