Food
Taking Orders: Kitty Hawk
by Helena Lang
Right on the edge of theatreland, and with Soho, Covent Garden and the sights and scenes of Trafalgar Square on its doorstep is this new rooftop restaurant, where hip sounds and funky staff accompany delicious, well-cooked seasonal classics says Helena Lang.
Where is it?
On the top floor of the new Page8 Hotel, a ten-minute walk from Tottenham Court Road station.
What’s all the fuss about?
It’s a challenge to find – or recommend – a restaurant in this neck of the woods that isn’t a chain eatery, or that doesn’t serve bland plates of pasta, or bog-standard burgers. Kitty Hawk is an exception and should enter your little black book as a hidden gem to hunt out when you’re in town for a show, to see an exhibition or a bit of retail therapy.
What’s the place like?
With views over Trafalgar Square this is a buzzing, stylish, large room decorated in warm apricot and copper tones. There are intimate booth style seating areas as well as larger tables for groups of friends and the DJ spins sounds that create an upbeat yet mellow vibe. The young staff are warm, friendly and know the menu well so don’t be nervous about asking their advice on what to order and the best wines to accompany your choices.
What did you eat and drink?
I kicked off with a fresh and vibrant courgette, pea and feta tart full of fresh flavours and crisp and creamy textures. My other half chose a yellowfin tuna carpaccio drizzled with a highly savoury sesame, wasabi, mango and ginger dressing. He stuck to fish for his main course too, hugely enjoying a large Cornish lemon sole, grilled and served on the bone with wild sea greens, new potatoes and a caper butter sauce.
I can’t resist lamb when it’s on the menu and ordered the Salt Marsh lamb rack, three perfectly pink cutlets arranged on a large dollop of creamed potatoes, with an anchovy crusted heritage carrot on the plate as well as a drizzle of minty jus. It was all delicious. Dessert was a hefty milk chocolate and hazelnut brownie with a praline ganache and a dulce de leche ripple ice cream. Three piles of absolutely loveliness but would feed two easily.
The signature cocktail list is tempting – and I plumped for a vodka based Gastonia which had hints of white chocolate, passion fruit, verjus, vanilla and ginger ale. The wine list with selections by the glass is small but perfectly formed – a glass of The Pale rosé for me, from the same producer as Whispering Angel, Chateau D’Esclans, and a glass of Puglian Primitivo for him.
Your verdict?
This is one of those clever restaurants that can be both intimate and romantic, as well as buzzing and celebratory. The please-all menu isn’t there to break new boundaries, but to offer Londoners well-cooked and presented food in a stylish Central London venue and scores top marks in those areas.
Lasting memory?
Slicing up those delicious, tender lamb cutlets.
How to book: Etmcollection.co.uk/venue/kitty-hawk