Meet the goats on a rural smallholding stay and learn how you can make cheese at home.

Having grown up in Yorkshire, for me, the wild North York Moors National Park can’t be topped. So the chance for a short break in pretty Rosedale Abbey near Pickering is a draw in itself, let alone the chance to learn how to make cheese at home – a process far more approachable than I’d imagined.

Abbey Farm Cottage is home to Suzie and Jonty BirrellGray, as well as an assortment of farm and domestic animals, and their goat’s cheese dairy. The couple moved to the 10-acre smallholding on the edge of the village in 2019 and have won multiple awards for both their Rosedale and Bell End Blue cheeses (named for local landmarks), made with raw milk from the herd of goats.

We’re booked in to Robins Rest, one of two shepherd’s huts (a cosy cottage is also available), furnished with antiques and subtle bird-themed décor. Each has its own private garden with a wood-fired hot tub, barbecue and chiminea. The shepherd’s huts also come with an adjoining kitchen shed, and a private shower room nearby. If you don’t fancy cooking, there are two pubs in the village just a few minutes’ walk away, plus a couple of cute cafés.

The farm’s cockerels ensure we’re not late for the next day’s cheesemaking course, which takes place in the farmhouse kitchen. Jonty and Suzie guide us through turning the churns of fresh raw milk into feta, halloumi, ricotta, fresh chèvre, yogurt and labneh. It’s absolutely fascinating seeing how the milk is transformed into such diverse end products simply by adjusting a few factors. The day is broken up by a sumptuous spread – a fragrant chicken curry enriched with labneh proving particularly memorable.

When you’ve had your fill of cheese, there are the stunning moors and valleys to explore. Or hop on a steam train at Pickering to coastal Whitby. But don’t expect to get anywhere in a hurry, as the twisty country roads and steep banks in and out of the valleys will force you to adjust to a slower pace, and to appreciate the scenery. For someone now accustomed to city living, this rural idyll reminds me where my heart truly lies.