A classic country pub serving top-notch grub provides a cosy couples getaway.

After a two-hour walk, returning to The Richard Onslow is like being embraced in a generous hug. Thanks to a downpour the night before, the countryside stomp had been muddy – proper mud, the sort that covers your boots in a thick gummy layer and splashes right up your legs, no matter how carefully you tread. Not the relaxing stroll we had in mind. We followed ‘The Richard Onslow Cranleigh Trail’ on AllTrails, a handy app that you can download on your smartphone to find maps of walks for wherever you’re visiting.

Thankfully, this is the kind of pub that you can wander into, muddy as you like, and you’ll be greeted with a smile. It’s popular with locals and travellers alike, but regulars know where the best spot is – in the snug. Pints in hand, my partner, Antonio, and I sink into our chairs, happy to be somewhere dry but still invigorated by the fresh air, a much-needed boost after a busy working week in the city.

The pub is in Cranleigh, said to be one of England’s biggest villages, which is less than two hours’ drive from London, or you can catch a train to Guildford and take a taxi. The pleasant high street boasts independent boutiques, cafés and antique shops, with the beautiful Surrey Hills on its doorstep.

A TASTE OF TRADITION

Grand and traditional, the pub’s history started in the 18th century under various guises, including The Six Bells and the ‘Flower-de-Luce’ (Fleur de Lis). In 2009, the building was renovated and renamed The Richard Onslow, after an ally of Oliver Cromwell.

Today, it is known for its welcoming atmosphere and good food. In addition to the bar area and snug, the elegant dining room serves elevated gastropub grub with a focus on high-quality produce. Part of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, pride is taken in the provenance of its ingredients, from Jimmy Butler’s free-range Blythburgh pork from Suffolk to spirits from the Herefordshire-based Chase Distillery.

At dinner time, we finally tear ourselves away from the snug. To start, Antonio opts for a delicate celeriac and apple soup with toasted pine nuts and crusty ciabatta, while I try the free-range chicken and Parma ham terrine with pickles. Both are delicious. For our mains, we both go for steak, breaking my rule of ‘We need to order different things so I can try everything!’ The promise of grass-fed, dry-aged British beef sourced from Leamington Spa butcher Aubrey Allen is too tempting. My surf ’n’ turf pairs a perfectly pink three-ounce filet medallion with juicy garlic king prawns, plus thick-cut golden chips and Tenderstem broccoli. I’m a dessert person, so I resist the selection of British cheeses and order the warm chocolate fondant. It comes topped with Jude’s honeycomb ice cream, studded with melt-in-themouth honeycomb pieces.

Drowsy with full bellies, the thought of snuggling into bed and watching a film becomes increasingly appealing. Happily, we only need to climb upstairs to find our cosy, rustic room with sloped ceilings and exposed wooden beams. It has a traditional English countryside aesthetic, with patterned wallpapers and fabrics in dark greens, soft browns and dusky pinks.

The next morning, breakfast ticks all the wellloved boxes. Wild mushrooms on artisan sourdough toast with an orange-yolked poached egg are accompanied by a mug of hand-roasted coffee. The special is a berry French toast, which I try to persuade Antonio to order (so I can have a bite, of course), but he insists on a full English complete with Clonakilty black pudding and is very happy with his decision.

After a quick mooch around the shops, we leave Cranleigh and head back to London feeling refreshed – and incredibly well-fed and watered. Our boots and clothes need cleaning, but that muddy walk was worth it.