Going with the flow...Following the river Rhône aboard an opulent ship serving fine local cuisine makes for the ultimate in relaxation.

You don’t often get to live in the lap of luxury, but that’s the only way to describe my four days sailing the river Rhône with Riverside Luxury Cruises. Up close, the company’s new ship, Ravel, is picture-perfect: white and sleek, with large windows offering views down the length of both sides. Inside, three smart guest decks are easy to negotiate. When the ship is moored, the expansive Vista top deck is the place to sunbathe and enjoy a drink. Even for the most uneasy water traveller, it offers a relaxing nautical experience.

Our trip saw us glide along the stretch of the Rhône between French cities Arles and Lyon. The river has many locks and bridges, so only narrow ships can take this route – but it didn’t make the 135m-long by 12m-wide Ravel feel less spacious. Quite the opposite – its well-specced suites are generously sized, with king beds, and most have walk-in closets. You can choose between six styles for different budgets; all have panoramic views from French balconystyle windows. Elsewhere, the dining and bar areas comfortably accommodate all guests. They’ve even found space for a neat pool with a counter-current setting, a Technogym, spa and yoga classes.

On a river cruise, you can walk ashore and explore at your own pace. Riverside Luxury Cruises offers several options, from all-inclusive with drinks and excursions, to packages where these can be add-ons. An itinerary for the next day is left in your room and you pick what suits.

On day one we headed to Arles in the south, for a walking tour of its Roman antiquities, including the amphitheatre where gladiators once fought, and to see locations painted by Van Gogh – he completed some 300 paintings while here in the Provence region. It’s fascinating to stand outside the café depicted in his 1888 ‘Café Terrace at Night’ and walk the restored courtyard of the hospital where he was treated after cutting off part of his ear. The city is now also a hub for modern art: the futuristic Luma art centre, designed by Frank Gehry, is a must-see, even if you don’t get to go inside.

Our tour took us into the countryside outside Arles, too. We passed through the bijou town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and up to the hilltop plateau of Les Baux-de-Provence for views of the lower-lying Alpilles mountains and the Camargue. Notable landmarks are the 10th-century fortress and the immersive arts centre Carrières des Lumières, built in a quarry: its three huge rooms are carved inside the mountain, and exhibitions are projected onto the 14-metre-high walls.

MAKING A SPLASH

We landed in a heatwave, so it was always a relief to return to our nautical haven. We’d be greeted with a glass of Champagne before stepping into air-conned paradise. Cruising is as much about food as activities, which can be a bit overwhelming – but the Ravel avoids this with its well-put-together menus. The spacious Waterside Restaurant is buffet style for breakfast and lunch, with fine-dining table service at dinner. Meals can be as simple or as sophisticated as you like, with dishes focused on regional classics made with quality local ingredients. There’s also a private dining experience for groups in the Vintage Room, where the head chef serves a seven-course asting menu with wine pairings (£250 per head). Small bites are also available in the separate Bistro area, which has tapas and relaxed meals at night.

On day two I swapped culture for calorie-burning kayaking – and I loved it, despite getting soaked. The highlight was paddling under the Roman Pont du Gard aqueduct. After drying, we were whisked off for a well-earned alfresco Provençal lunch of salads and cold meat with a refreshing rosé at the beautiful Domaine de Panéry winery. Later that evening, as I’d not chosen the tour of Avignon and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, I was pleased we got to taste some of those famous reds at a fun tutored wine-tasting at Maison Bouchon.

Day three saw us moored at Tournon-sur-Rhône, sandwiched between two other wine giants: the prestigious appellations of Hermitage and Saint-Joseph. I had to pinch myself. We walked into the town to explore its middle ages and Renaissance landmarks, and to get up close to those Saint-Joseph vineyards. The church of Saint-Julien, with its offset bell tower, and imposing Château-Musée de Tournon-sur-Rhône were stunning retreats from the heat.

Lyon was our destination on day four, and a fitting finale for both its historic monuments and gastronomy. You get the best view of the city from the late-19th-century Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière, which has been likened to an elephant lying on its back. Back in the old town, we walked through some of the city’s hidden passages, called traboules; these were once used by craftspeople to transport textiles and clothes while avoiding bad weather. You can’t visit Lyon without having lunch at a typical Lyon restaurant, or bouchon. Les Lyonnais Bouchon did us proud, serving the heartiest, cheesiest and meatiest dishes and a winning crème caramel.

At our last-night supper, we raised our glasses to toast our trip and danced well into the night. It was time to drop anchor and head home – relaxed after four of the most pleasurable days.

BEST BITS

1 - The Waterside Restaurant. One delicious dinner included a roasted fig tart appetiser, a creamy mushroom fettuccine, a tender beef bourguignon, apple tart with honeycomb ice cream, and delectable French cheeses.

2 - A Bloody Marymaking masterclass with barkeeper Balazs. His potent recipe was then poured over ice and served with a green olive.

3 - An early-morning yoga session by the pool – followed by a quick dip and a massage that unknotted my shoulder.