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Food

Taking Orders: Il Pampero

by Helena Lang

Amongst the embassies, luxury homes and designer headquarters in Belgravia lies the small but chic Hari Hotel and it’s warm and friendly Italian restaurant Il Pampero. Helena Lang met her friend Susie for a glass of Prosecco or two and a plate of pasta that would please any visiting Italian.

Where is it?

On the ground floor of the Hari Hotel, which lies between Cadogan Gardens and Belgrave Square a short walk from Knightsbridge tube station.

What’s all the fuss about?

Well, the fuss is that there isn’t a fuss. There are many London hotel restaurants that have celebrity chef menus, and that reap columns of coverage from restaurant critics, but this has never been one of them. For that reason, it’s a bit of a hidden gem – unlike the rocks worn by the billionaire clientele who hop in and out of their limousines outside the local boutiques. Step inside and you’ll find a down-to-earth, stylish, casual dining room serving delicious Italian favourites to couples, tourists, groups of local office workers and friends like us.

The Carpaccio di Manzo
The Carpaccio di Manzo

What’s the place like?

Stylish and cool, like the best neighbourhood restaurants in New York City. Exposed brickwork, glossy tiles, mid-Century style furniture, intimate booths, and leather bar stools create a drop-in and chill out vibe.

What did you eat and drink?

I kicked dinner off with Carpaccio di Manzo, a generous portion of pepper seared beef carpaccio arranged on a plate and covered with handfuls of peppery rocket, slivers of aged Parmesan cheese and drizzles of a piquant mustard dressing whilst my friend, Susie enjoyed her Tonno Affumicato; smoked tuna carpaccio, pickled courgette and whipped ricotta. For her main course Susie stuck with her seafood theme heaping praise on her bowl of Tonnarelli Vongole laden with clams, chilli, garlic and Sardinian bottarga. Not being in a pasta mood, I instead chose a perfectly seared tuna steak which came with a hunk of grilled aubergine, a fresh lemon sauce and a tomato garnish. A dessert of grapefruit pannacotta with charred red grapefruit and a homemade biscotti was a light and elegant way to finish dinner.

A bowl of Tonnarelli Vongole
A bowl of Tonnarelli Vongole
The perfectly seared tuna steak
The perfectly seared tuna steak
Grapefruit pannacotta
Grapefruit pannacotta

Your verdict?

A welcome change from some of the more traditional Italian restaurants in central London, and yet still offering tried and tested favourites with a contemporary and refreshing twist. It was fun, and the food was fabulous

Lasting memory

I could eat a platter of that finely sliced beef carpaccio every week for the rest of my life.

How to book

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