The beautiful city of York has lots of good restaurants and some fantastic local chefs cooking tremendous food, but the new tasting menu concept created by chefs Ahmed Abdalla and Kevin Bonello at Legacy, a jewel-box of a restaurant, is something very special indeed and takes fine dining in the city to a new level says Helena Lang.

Where is it?

Legacy is tucked away in a corner of the ground floor of the Grand Hotel, in the city centre a few minutes’ walk from the station.

What’s all the fuss about?

Head Chef Ahmed Abdalla, who heads up the kitchen at Legacy is a rising star in the fine-dining world and his passion for cooking and ingredients shines through in the 'Evolution Through The Eras' menu and when he comes and chats to guests in the restaurant. The menu he has created along with colleague Kevin Bonello comes in three variations in which courses are added if the customer wants them. The themes are Stone (£90) a five-course gastronomic amble through to the city's Roman origins; Water (£110) where the seven courses remember 100 years of Viking occupancy and Steel (£130) a nine-course celebration of the city's industrial heyday, and the arrival of the railway. With each menu the customer can choose from two or three options on many of the courses depending on their preferences.

What’s the place like?

It’s a neat, cosy dining space - like a luxurious jewel-box -  with beautiful, orginal plasterwork, smart navy upholstery and chic, well-spaced tables.

What did you eat and drink?

My daughter Jessica and I decided that we should choose the ultimate Legacy experience and plumped for the Steel menu which kicked off with some delicate canapés accompanied by an excellent English sparkling wine chosen by the executive sommelier; Derek Scaife.

Next up was a unique shitake mushroom custard, smooth and savoury served with samphire and puffed rice which was followed by an Orkney scallop prepared two ways, both equally delicious. For course number four I had chosen cappelletti, a small pasta parcel filled with Baron Bigod cheese and smoked dates, then scattered with slices of truffle. It was superb. I also went vegetarian for my next course choosing the fermented celeriac ‘nosotto’, grains of barley with a confit egg yolk perched on top and surrounded with tiny rings of crispy smoked onion. Heaven on a plate.

The fish and meat courses were excellent too. Jessica tucked into a dry-aged Yorkshire beef striploin with relish even eating the beef tongue that was also on the plate and the chantarelle mushrooms too. I chose the halibut, which came with a zingy, citrus emulsion, tomatoes and preserved lemon. The desserts were very light – perfect for after a rich meal – and were followed by a selection of cheese, with homemade crackers and preserved watermelon rind, a revelation. All the courses were accompanied delicious wines, including one of my favourites an Assyritko from Greece, a white with a rounded freshness and well-balanced with the light, bright cooking.

Your verdict?

Lucky York citizens! This should be their first choice when they really want to push the boat out.

Lasting memory

Chatting to Ahmed, hearing about his culinary journey and passion for the role, the restaurant and the menu.

How to book

Visit: Thegrandyork.co.uk/drinking-dining/the-legacy